Nothing is wrong with your faucet. Water is simply emptying from the aerator and the hose of your faucet.

Nothing is wrong with your faucet. The shower head is simply emptying its reservoir of water.

The spool and sleeve, the part of the Monitor pressure balance valve that blends the hot and cold water, may not be working properly. This is often caused by mineral deposits that build up over time. To solve, follow the steps below based on your model.

Tools you may need:

1. Shut off water supply.
   
   
   

2. There are two types of valves. Choose a or b below depending on your series

   1. 1300/1400 Series: Remove handle.

   2. 1700/1800 Series: Remove temperature knob, cover and handle.

3. Twist and pull sleeve to remove it.

4. Unscrew brass bonnet nut.

5. Remove cartridge.

6. Soak cartridge in a 50/50 vinegar and water solution for 24 hours to remove any mineral deposits.

NOTE: Unless both hot and cold water supplies are turned on, the pressure balance valve will allow only a dribble of water to flow through the valve.

Helpful Hints:

1. Before removing valve cartridge assembly for any maintenance, be sure to note the position of the stop on the cap. The valve cartridge assembly must always be put back in the same position. For normal installations, the stop on the cap will face the left.

   BE SAFE! After you have finished the installation, turn on valve to make sure COLD WATER FLOWS FIRST.

2. To remove valve cartridge from body, shut off water supplies and remove handle and bonnet nut. Do not pry the valve cartridge out of the body with a screwdriver. Place handle on stem and rotate counterclockwise approximately 1/4 turn after the stop has been contacted. Lift valve cartridge out of body.

3. To remove seats and springs, remove valve cartridge. Separate cap assembly from the housing assembly by rotating the cap assembly counterclockwise 90 degrees. Separate cap and housing assemblies. Remove seats and springs and replace. Place the largest diameter of the spring into the seat pocket first and then press the tapered end of the seal over the spring. Reassemble valve cartridge and replace in body following instructions given in 1 above.

4. If the water in your area has lime, rust, sand or other contaminants in it, your pressure balance valve will require periodic inspection. The frequency of the inspection will depend on the amount of contaminants in the water. To inspect valve cartridge remove it and follow the steps in note 1 above. Turn the valve to the full mix position and shake the cartridge vigorously. If there is a rattling sound, the unit is functional and can be reinstalled following instructions given in note 1 above. If there is no rattle,replace the housing assembly (RP19805).

The most common reason is from a loose adjusting ring:

• Check for loose adjusting ring and tighten as needed.

The second, and more difficult, relates to the type of ball valve installed. Earlier production of this faucet included a vacuum breaker ball. Since then a new spray head was developed with internal check assemblies eliminating the requirement for a vacuum breaker ball. The vacuum breaker ball can be identified through the existence of two vent holes in the top of it.

If the faucet has a vacuum breaker ball, there are two options:

1. Replace the vacuum breaker ball, part number RP12301
   
   OR

2. Order new spray head (wand), part number RP32542, and new non-vacuum breaker ball, part number RP70.

You need a new cartridge assembly, part number RP19804. You may notice that the new one will be blue and white while yours may be white. This is just a change in manufacturing which will not affect your ability to use it.

You need to push the fitting up over the nipple a little harder and you should hear a distinct "snap" or "click". It's possible to push it on gently and you might hear a slight click, but you haven't quite compressed the o-ring into the housing of the hose. One more push should solve the problem.

It is extremely rare for a faucet to develop a leak under the counter. Typically, leaks under the counter occur upon installation due to one of two factors.

With Quick-Snap® connections - Newer Delta widespread faucets feature Quick-Snap® installation. If you have Quick-Snap® connections and experience leaking at the connection points, Quick-Snap may not have been properly installed. Follow these steps to check the Quick-Snap connections:

1. Shut off water supply.

2. Pull at the connections to see if the hoses are properly affixed. If they are not connected securely, pull them off completely and reattach them until you hear or feel a snap.

If your faucet does not have Quick-Snap connections, tighten the hose to the spout and handles using a wrench.

Do not overtighten. Use two wrenches to tighten the copper tube to the water supply lines, located under each handle.

First, we need to find out if the hot or cold valve is causing the leak. Let's begin by troubleshooting with the hot valve:

1. Shut off the hot water supply. If you can't find the shut-off for your tub/shower valve, shut off the water to your house by using your water shut-off valve.
2. Remove the faucet handle. To do this, depending on your handle type, you will need a Phillips screwdriver or an Allen wrench.
3. Remove the chrome bonnet nut using an adjusting wrench.
4. Remove stem extender.
5. Remove stem assembly by pulling straight out.
6. Remove the extender and stem assembly.
7. Remove the seats and springs.
8. Examine them for wear or debris and wipe out any debris in the depression where the seats and springs sit in the valve body.
9. Replace the seats and springs. (Delta Genuine Part RP4993 -€“ two sets per package).
10. Reassemble the faucet to see if the drip has stopped.

If the drip persists, repeat the above steps on the cold valve.

If you've replaced the seats and springs and the problem continues, replace both stem assemblies (Delta Genuine Part RP1740 - one stem assembly per package).

If all of the above has not fixed your leak, and your valve is more than 10 or 15 years old, it is possible that the actual faucet body may have developed a leak. If so, you will need to replace your tub/shower valve with a new one.

With normal wear, the faucet’s seats and springs become worn, which may result in a leak from the spout. To stop the leak, simply replace the seats and springs by following these steps:

Here are some tools you may need:

If you are not certain, you will need to find out if the hot or cold valve is causing the leak. Let's begin by troubleshooting with the hot valve:

1. Shut off water supply.

2. Cover drain opening so parts won’t fall into it.

3. If you have lever handles, loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have knob handles, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.

4. Unscrew bonnet nut. Use a crescent wrench to loosen if necessary.

   
   

5. Pull stem straight up and out.
   
   
   

6. Remove seat and spring. You can lift them out with a pencil or an Allen wrench.
   
   
   

7. Wipe inside of body, including where seat and spring sit, with a soft cloth.

8. Place new seat over new spring (Delta Genuine Part RP4993 – two sets per package)and insert into socket in body using a pencil or an Allen wrench. (Small end of spring goes into seat large end of the spring goes into the faucet body.)
   
   
   

9. IMPORTANT—STEM MUST BE REPLACED PROPERLY.

   1. Knob handle stem position: Slip the stem unit into the body, aligning the tabs on the stem with the slots in the body, so the “stop” on each stem points toward the spout.

   2. Lever handle stem position: Align the tabs on the stem with the slots in the body, so the “stop” on each stem points toward the right. If you have lever handles, you may also need to reinstall the quarter turn stops to limit the handles from turning more than 90º. Note: If you reinstall the handles and find that they aren’t turning the right direction, rotate the stem 180º and check for proper handle rotation.

   
   

10. Screw bonnet nut on and hand tighten.
    
    
    

11. Replace handle, tighten screw.

If the drip persists, repeat the above steps on the cold valve.

It is normal for a small (pencil thin) stream of water to continue to flow from the tub spout when the shower is in operation. If the amount of water flow is excessive, then this indicates a problem with the diverter located in the tub spout. This cannot be repaired and the spout must be replaced. Remove the tub spout and replace it with a Genuine Delta tub spout.

To locate a local source for Delta tub spouts, contact licensed professional plumbing contractor or Delta showroom, or call 1-800-345-DELTA (3358), or e-mail us for assistance.

Note: Consumer safety is our number one concern. If you do not have experience with plumbing repairs, we recommend that you contact a licensed plumber for tub/shower repairs.

On a single handle faucet, you need to tighten the adjusting ring or replace the cam and packing.

1. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle.

   
   

2. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over tightening of the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces necessitating frequent repairs.

If leak persists, you may need to replace the cam and packing using Delta Genuine Parts.

1. Shut off water supply.

2. Cover drain opening so parts don't fall into it.

3. If you have a lever handle with a red and blue hot/cold button, pry it off to expose the set screw. Loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have a knob handle, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.

4. Unscrew the cap counterclockwise and lift off. If the cap is too difficult to unscrew by hand, loosen the gray or white adjusting ring in the cap and try again. If it is still too difficult to remove by hand, place a crescent wrench at the top of it and turn counterclockwise. To avoid damaging the faucet finish, you may want to place a jar opener gripper between the cap and wrench or a heavy cloth such as a towel between the cap and wrench. CAUTION: IF YOU NOTICE THE CAM TURNING ALSO, QUIT TURNING IMMEDIATELY AND CALL A PLUMBER.

5. Remove cam, packing and ball by lifting up on ball stem.

   
   

6. Place replacement packing and cam over stem of ball and engage tab on cam with slot in body. (The peak of the triangle in the cam for a lever handle faucet will be facing the spout.) Push down.

   
   

7. Partially unscrew adjusting ring and then place cap over ball stem and hand tighten onto body, while pushing down on cam to keep cam's tab engaged with slot in body.

8. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
   
   
   

   Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over tightening of the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces necessitating frequent repairs.

If this is a non-pressure balance tub or shower:

On a single handle tub or shower, you need to tighten the adjusting ring or replace the cam and packing.

1. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle.

2. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over tightening of the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces necessitating frequent repairs.

If leak persists, you may need to replace the cam and packing using Delta Genuine Parts.

1. Shut off water supply.

2. Cover drain opening so parts don't fall into it.

3. If you have a lever handle with a red and blue hot/cold button, pry it off to expose the set screw. Loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have a knob handle, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.

4. Unscrew the cap counterclockwise and lift off. If the cap is too difficult to unscrew by hand, loosen the gray or white adjusting ring in the cap and try again. If it is still too difficult to remove by hand, place a crescent wrench at the top of it and turn counterclockwise. To avoid damaging the faucet finish, you may want to place a jar opener gripper between the cap and wrench or a heavy cloth such as a towel between the cap and wrench.
   
   CAUTION: IF YOU NOTICE THE CAM TURNING ALSO, QUIT TURNING IMMEDIATELY AND CALL A PLUMBER.

5. Remove cam, packing and ball by lifting up on ball stem.

6. Place replacement packing and cam over stem of ball and engage tab on cam with slot in body. Push down.

7. Partially unscrew adjusting ring and then place cap over ball stem and hand tighten onto body, while pushing down on cam to keep cam's tab engaged with slot in body.

8. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle.

9. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over tightening of the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces necessitating frequent repairs.

Your Delta® faucet is designed for leak-free performance. Through normal use, and depending on the water conditions in your area, seats and springs experience wear and may need to be replaced occasionally. It is also possible that there is sediment or debris in your faucet. If your faucet drips from the spout, follow these simple steps:

First attempt to flush the debris from the system:

1. Remove the aerator.
2. Turn off the water supplies.
3. Turn the faucet handle to the "on" position.
4. Turn the water on at the supply.
5. Flush the faucet and supply lines for one minute.
6. Wash any debris from the aerator before you replace it.
7. Turn off the water using the faucet handle.

1. Shut off water supply.
2. Cover drain opening so parts don't fall into it.
3. If you have a lever handle with a red and blue hot/cold button, pry it off to expose the set screw. Loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have a knob handle, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.
4. Unscrew the cap counterclockwise and lift off. If the cap is too difficult to unscrew by hand, loosen the gray or white adjusting ring in the cap and try again. If it is still too difficult to remove by hand, place a crescent wrench at the top of it and turn counterclockwise. To avoid damaging the faucet finish, you may want to place a jar opener gripper between the cap and wrench or a heavy cloth such as a towel between the cap and wrench.CAUTION: IF YOU NOTICE THE CAM TURNING ALSO, QUIT TURNING IMMEDIATELY AND CALL A PLUMBER.
5. Remove cam, packing and ball by lifting up on ball stem.
   
   
   
   
6. Remove seats and springs. You can lift them out with a pencil or an Allen wrench.
7. Wipe inside of body with a soft cloth, including where seats and springs sit.
8. Place new seats over new springs (RP4993) and insert into sockets in body using a pencil or an Allen wrench. (Small end of spring goes into seat and large end of spring goes into the faucet body.)
   
   
   
   
9. If a stainless steel ball is already installed, check it for damage or mineral deposits. Clean it by soaking it in vinegar and wiping it with a rough towel. If the ball appears to be scratched or damaged, you may also need to replace the ball. To replace a round-stem ball (cylindrical stem), use Delta Genuine Part RP70. To replace a diamond-stem ball (flat-sided stem), use Delta Genuine Part RP212. Place ball into body. (Lever handle faucet bodies will have a small straight steel pin inside; be sure to engage pin with slot on side of ball.)
   
   
   
   
10. Place packing and cam over stem of ball and engage tab on cam with slot in body. (The peak of the triangle in the cam for a lever handle faucet will be facing the spout.) Push down.
    
    
    
    
11. Partially unscrew adjusting ring and then place cap over ball stem and hand tighten onto body, while pushing down on cam to keep cam's tab engaged with slot in body.
12. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
    
    
    
    Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over tightening of the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces necessitating frequent repairs.

If the leak persists, check the faucet's stainless steel liners. Replace the entire faucet if the liners are missing, damaged or sticking up above the brass valve body. 

Here are some tools you may need:

On a two-handle faucet, try tightening the bonnet shown below. 

If that does not work, you may need to replace the stem.

Purchase Delta Genuine Part RP1740 – For one stem assembly per package, or RP25513 for those requiring the quarter-turn stop.  To replace the stem:

1. Shut off water supply.

2. Cover drain opening so parts won’t fall into it.

3. If you have lever handles, loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have knob handles, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.

4. Unscrew bonnet nut. Use a crescent wrench to loosen if necessary.

   
   

5. Pull stem straight up and out.
   
   
   

6. IMPORTANT—STEM MUST BE REPLACED PROPERLY.

   1. Knob handle stem position: Slip the stem unit into the body, aligning the tabs on the stem with the slots in the body, so the “stop” on each stem points toward the spout.

   2. Lever handle stem position: Align the tabs on the stem with the slots in the body, so the “stop” on each stem points toward the right. If you have lever handles, you may also need to reinstall the quarter turn stops to limit the handles from turning more than 90º. Note: If you reinstall the handles and find that they aren’t turning the right direction, rotate the stem 180º and check for proper handle rotation.

   
   

7. Screw bonnet nut on and hand tighten.
   
   
   

8. Replace handle, tighten screw.

The problem may be a blocked or damaged diverter assembly. Follow these steps to solve:

To access the diverter -- Single-handle faucet:

1. Shut off water supply under the sink.

2. Cover drain opening so parts won’t fall into it.

3. Remove the handle, cap, cam, packing and ball assembly. Gently rotate and lift off the spout.

   
   

4. Remove the diverter assembly. Be sure to remove the entire diverter.
   
   
   
   Insert a flat head screwdriver or an Allen wrench into the body cavity to pop out the diverter. Check for debris on the diverter, as well as in the diverter cavity in the faucet body. A flashlight will help when looking to the back of the cavity.

5. Clean the diverter thoroughly by soaking in a 50/50 vinegar and water solution for two hours; reinstall. If diverter appears damaged, replace it with Delta® diverter RP320.

To access the diverter -- Two-handle faucet:

1. Shut off water supply under the sink.

2. Cover drain opening so parts won’t fall into it.

3. Unscrew and remove the spout nut. Use a crescent wrench to loosen if necessary.
   
   
   

4. Unscrew the diverter from the top of the body using a coin (if the diverter is plastic) or a screwdriver (if the diverter is metal). Be sure to remove the entire diverter.
   
   
   

5. Clean the diverter by soaking in a 50/50 vinegar and water solution for 2 hours. Flush any debris from the opening.

6. Replace the diverter and spout nut.
   
   
   
   Check to see if the diverter functions properly. If not, replace it with Delta diverter RP6073. Be sure that the old diverter seal is removed before install the new diverter. The old diverter seal can prevent the new diverter from operating properly

Be careful not to over tighten the diverter.

Most likely, you are experiencing "shower-rise" where the water can’t get out of the spout as fast as it flows through the valve. This causes the water to back up and come out the shower head. There can be one of several reasons for this:

1. The valve could be upside down
2. The length from the valve to the tub spout is outside of the 8" to 18" rule
3. There is more than one 90-degree angle
4. Something other than copper or galvanized pipe was used going to the spout
5. The most common reason is that there is something restricting the water flow to the spout, e.g. solder or something lodged in the pipe. Something is impeding the flow of water to the spout and causing it to back up and go out the shower head. If this is the cause of shower-rise it is possible to remove the blockage by removing the tub spout; then, feeding a plumber’s snake or a speedometer cable up through the tub drop. The act of feeding it causes it to twirl and loosen the blockage. Be sure to flush the valve before reinstalling the tub spout. Be sure to check the tub spout itself for blockage.

Look under the sink to be sure the strap assembly that operates the stopper is properly adjusted and the nut holding the horizontal rod in the drain assembly is secure. Be sure the stopper is properly adjusted.

Note: The cap on the stopper is not designed to be flush with the flange. A seal is created by the weight of the water, which pushes the rubber seal under the stopper against the flange in the sink.

If your drain stopper has been installed to be non-removable, check to see if any section of the pivot rod or strap assembly hits underneath the counter or sink. If so, the stopper can't drop far enough to create a seal in the sink. Depending on what is blocking the action of the pivot rod or strap, you may be able to rotate the pop-up sink stopper slightly so it no longer bumps against anything under the sink.

If everything is adjusted properly, check the amount of silicone or putty between the flange and the sink itself. (Although a white gasket is supplied with each pop-up to seal under the flange, if a sink has an unusually rough surface in the drain area, it may be necessary to use silicone instead of the gasket.) It is possible to determine if there is insufficient silicone or putty under the flange by using a rubber stopper to seal the drain opening only. You can also press down on the stopper to attempt a manual seal and determine if water is leaking around the pop-up flange. If there is insufficient silicone or putty between the sink and the pop-up flange, water will leak out of the sink into the drain, even with the drain outlet fully closed.

Note: Water will not leak onto the cabinet floor; it will seep into the drain via the overflow holes in the drain body

1. Remove the nut that holds the horizontal rod to the body of the pop-up stopper.
2. Lift the stopper out.
3. Reattach the nut that holds the horizontal rod to the pop-up body.
4. Test to see if water is leaking around the flange by plugging your drain with a rubber stopper.
5. Do not cover the outside of the drain flange.
6. If the leak continues, remove the flange and apply more silicone or putty under the flange.

To remove the flange:

1. Unscrew the large nut under the sink.
2. Pull the flange straight up through the sink. If the flange sticks to the sink, gently pry it loose.
3. Apply a fresh, uniform-round bead of silicone or putty.
4. Reinstall the flange and tighten the nut under the sink.

Note: Do not rotate the flange or pop-up stopper body after re-installation. Rotation may cause the silicone or putty seal to break, which may cause leakage.

Caution: Before using plumber's putty, be sure to read the warning labels to make sure it won't stain marble or attack plastic sinks or rubber components.